Where it all began.
One thing is for sure, as humans evolved, developing their primary intelligence to a point where they became tool makers, we can be sure the materials of the environment in which they evolved were made use of. Sustaining the ability of not just survival, but the ability to thrive.
The ealiest evidence of leather stemming from roughly 9125 years ago was discovered at the site of Çatalhöyük a neololithic proto city located in the anotolia region of modern day Turkey, however the most ancient representation of an Animal being hunted comes from Indonesian island of Sulawesi, dated to more than 51000 years ago.
Considering the above in context with our evolution. The earliest evidence of tool use by humans dates back to roughly 3,300,000 years ago. This comes from discoveries archaeological sites in East Africa, initially by Mary Leakey in the Olduvai Gorge in Tanzania and the Gona River site in Ethiopia. The tools discovered at these sites are primarily stone tools, known as Oldowan tools, which were used for cutting, pounding, and processing materials. So potentially the craft is a pretty old one.
100 years before the age of steam, each parish would have been self sufficient.
The power of three.
This is where the intricate craft of producing a truly workable hide becomes a little more complex and, in my personal experience, utterly fascinating. We will start with The Fellmonger—the unsung hero—who is responsible for getting the hides prepped and ready for the Tanner by meticulously removing the hair or wool, fleshing, and degreasing the fell (the hide itself). This involves preparing, by various differing means, a souring of the hide, which is probably the oldest method out there. One method involves staking out the hide, which essentially means securing the fell in running water to allow it to soak and soften. Other methods of aging, or bating, which can be described as “fermenting” the hide, is achieved through the use of various concoctions of grains, dungs, and even urine. Each of these has unique enzymatic and ammoniac reactions, resulting in soft or harsher properties, which enable the tanner to select the correct fell needed for the desired outcome before purchase. The Tanner can use a mix of different barks or oils in a process known as “tawing” for the effective treatment and stabilisation of the hide fibres, ultimately creating longevity and durability in the final product. Each tanner was said to have their own secret recipe that set them apart. Last but certainly not least is The Currier, who is tasked with finishing the hide, bringing out its remarkable qualities through drying, oiling, and waxing for a variety of fascinating effects.
Then comes the leather work. with a vast range of complex skills and processes, from the humble pouch, to the mighty saddle, the cordwainer “shoe maker,” milliner, tailor, master braider and beyond each craft has its process and lore
Adam Morrigan Reds Raw Taw Tan